To own a TZM, need to follow basic water-cooled 2-stroke motorcycle use and maintenance.
Need to understand, it may be more expensive to maintain, or cheaper if you use local parts, or lower spec parts.

Here’s a list:
– Use: Need to warm up in the morning. Let it growl slowly below 5k RPM for a good 3 to 5 minutes. Some settings will need choke. Don’t worry, just use it. During riding, it is ok to rev up to 11k. Do not over 12k so much.

– Chain: For long life, use O-ring chains. RM200 a piece, but can last up to 30k. Normal chain need 132 links, longer than standard so make sure buy correct one. My O-ring is from factory 1994 use until now…

– Tyres: small size 80/90 front and 90/80 rear can use for straight line speed below 180kmh. Standard size 90/80 front and 110/70 rear.

– Oil: 2T make sure use good one. Expect to spend RM20 for every 800~1000km. Lesser quality oil will cause carbon to jam the PV, conrod bearing noise. The best one can cost RM80 a liter. Some people recommends TCW3 marine 2T, but I have not tried it.

– Oil: 4T make sure use good one, to jaga the gearbox. Expect to spend RM20 every 3000~5000km.

Parts and common problems:
– Powervalve, bush, and O-ring: Local set RM30. Change when leak. Sometimes just change the O-ring also can, RM5~10 for different grades. There are different types: First version that split in the middle without safety guide, if PV servo go crazy, it will hit piston. Second version is with safety on the right side end cover.

– Powervalve pulley: Attached to PV on the left side, under the YPVS cover. If engine has problem and overheat, it will melt. If valve is stuck, the pulley will break. Otherwise, it will last a long time.

– Powervalve servo: Electronic device that controls PV open/close. Listen to it ‘sweep’ open-close when turn on the key. It should be a clean and fast ‘Zzzzzz….Zzzzzz’ complete in less than 2 seconds. When kill engine using right thumb switch, listen to it again, single ‘Zzzzzz’. If you kill engine using key off, the next time you turn it on, the PV will sweep 3 times. When running, it will slowly open from 6k RPM to 9k RPM. Maintenance required to change the grease inside the servo housing. Up to RM550 for a new one, or at average price of RM150 for used one.

– Battery: When turn on the key, make sure the lights on meter are on, and enough to power the PV servo. Also, press the horn to check if it has enough power. Do not ride the bike if the battery is dead. It can kill the PV servo.

– CDI – located under the seat. Original has 3D Yamaha tuning fork logo on top, with white letters printed on the back. Mine will warm up after use. Second hand is around RM100~150. A friend used to tell me, for konvoi, other than cacing tayar, this is one spare item that you must have also. Spoilt CDI will have firing problems after 10k RPM, but not noticeable unless you put the bike on dyno.

– Headlight – original is KOITO Japan. Later one are KOITO Thailand. Local one are HM. The KOITO are brightest, HM will melt if use 90W bulbs but otherwise ok. About RM80 for a good second hand KOITO.

– Radiator, coolant and engine temperature – Must use coolant fluid, not just water otherwise the engine head, radiator etc will rust. Make sure coolant fluid is filled into the reserve under the seat on the left side and the tank hose is connected to the radiator. If not, the radiator will dry up. To know the maximum safe temperature for your engine, pour boiling water to the termostat located on engine head and see the max level on the meter. Every meter behaves differently, some meter will go until half way only.

– Engine block, piston and piston rings: Standard block is aluminium with Nikasil coating, using forged piston and soft steel rings.
There are Y1 and Y2 blocks, and both have good performance. Because of the coating, the block cannot be rebored. It is important to change rings every 15k to 20k km, and replace pistons at least 30k km. If you race, change them every 15 hours (15 jam tukar satu set untuk racing).
For used blocks, good condition starts at RM350 to RM550.
For sleeved blocks, ask price from buyers are at RM100. Good sleeves can be as good as original blocks, also used in racing. But, bad sleeves will cause engine jam every 2km. Piston and ring set around RM90.

– Other parts follow normal 2-stroke maintenance: carburator, fork, rear absorber etc…

– Things that can get lost on its own: Carburator and front brake caliper. Carburator ori motor about RM200, can be more or less. New carburator about RM450. Local carburator starts at RM80, brand Lippo which I am using. Can go to 12k RPM and meter speed of 180kmh.

– Fuel consumption: 240~280km city ride per 10 liter tank, or 350~380km slow ride on highway. Compare to some KIPS can go 480km per tank.


  1. Masaalah tzm aku bila speed 150km tiba2 senggut2 pas tu mati….bila hidup semula ram2 tk senggut pun…bolih beri tip yg baik nk sattle masaalah tu..Otai rider…

  2. Waktu last sekali pakai tzm, dari JB pi Penang.. stop stesen minyak jaaa.. Rawang 30 min.. 6am to 1pm Kat Penang.. bawak 140-180kph… Okay jaaaa… Mmg legend laa TZM… Really miss my bike

  3. RPM boleh sampai 15k. Tak percaya langsung selepas setting caburator cun-cun.

    Ada siapa bro dapat 15k tak? Top speed boleh berapa pergi?

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